Both of the delamination cases described in this paragraph are expensive to repair, because they require a large disassembly job prior to the laminate reconstruction; in fact it will be necessary to remove internal fittings like furniture or , in the second circumstance, the engines and related equipment. Though he had planned to use fiberglass tape along all four outside edges of the laminate at, this time, he decided to wait until this portion had cured. The second big advantage is that your access hole is on the opposite side of the hull from where you're doing your repair. I have done the stanchions and all was good because the was no exposed core. I determined what the camber crown of the deck was and laminated wood beams to conform to the curvature and length required to span the deck on the underside.
Maybe after I loose 60+ lbs. The work on the deck was done during intense weekends over a two-month period. Just keep squirting until it comes out of another nearby hole, then move on to another hole… repeat. When I was done, I will put a bunch of weight as well as a few c-clamps around the edges to squeeze the deck together. Those damages and delaminations produce, as mentioned before, a loss in the primary mechanical properties of the shell plate. Actually, it's surprising how stiff a mixture you can force through the luer-lock fitting on a standard syringe.
The final finish work was not as hard as you might imagine, due to the reuse of the old skin panels. Particular care must be exercised when the boat is hauled for the season: an asymmetrical load on the cradle or an insufficient supporting area may cause serious, and sometimes permanent, damage to the laminate. That would put the mixture density in the range of 0. De-lamination is the separation of the deck skin laminate from the core. The problem is almost always between the top skin and the core. Then I fitted new beams and plywood to the underside of the deck and prepared to push them up against the underside of the foredeck, forming a new wood deck beneath the old skin. Generally these are more costly, though you can save some weight.
I wet out the strips with unmodified epoxy no mill fiber filler , and set these into the mush on the liner. Because the replacement core was thicker than the space between laminates, he marked off the distance of the overhanging lip of fiberglass and used a router to remove the extra thickness around the side edge of each board. Cracks found in corners and running parallel to them are not caused by de-lamination, as there is no core material behind the corners proper. On extreme cases, the sandwich structure must be rebuild, following the above mentioned scheme. First is that you don't have to re-build the sandwich layup when you patch over the hull since the bottom of the hulls are solid fiberglass. Make sure you get the right size.
You can do it, but you'll cuss the day you decided to try. Also, the leaking has been occurring for at least 13 years I am a new owner since September and I know the last owner did not fix it without a repair so it has been going on for a very long time. That estimate is based on materials I consumed during the project, about 1 qt. By the time I go to fill I see that the top veneer can move in spots. Continue injecting until epoxy flows out of the third hole, wipe the overflow and transfer the syringe from the first hole to the third hole. During the pre-purchase purchase survey some areas of delamination were found on the cockpit floor and cabin roof.
The single skin delamination is repaired following the procedures previously described for the sandwich construction. If the deck is delaminated, then regardless of what other repair methods are used, it needs to be re-laminated. I haven't cut any inspection ports yet - but spring is coming. In conclusion we should always remember that delamination is not always detectable at first sight, but it has to be found with an accurate survey were a professional opinion is essential because delamination reduce the safety of the boat and can be very expensive to repair. Are the deck and hull similar in construction? I see it as a three four day project unless you kick it into gear with some heat.
Or will it maintain it's shape? I am waterproofing a Mariner 36' New Hampshire 1979. I had the assistance of family and friends some of the time, but the bulk of it was done without help. For the really bad areas I usually ended up with a mixture of 1:1 by volume of epoxy and 404 High-Density Filler, then about 1:2 or a bit more of that mixture and Microlight. The bottom skin is also thinner and sometimes porous in places. I dont have any idea what the home depot epoxy is, but I don't think this is a repair a day project. Having done it both ways, I would recommend the circle method. That being said, you still have a Laser, and without looking at it, I would say that it is probably salvageable for a rec boat but you may not want to take it out in heavy air.
Sometimes, the sound is made by the loose top skin contacting the core. The vacuum-bagged technique is a lamination system which use the atmosphere pressure to scrimp the laminate. Beware of this limitation as you search for other areas, until the weather warms again. He should have been wearing a Tyvek suit as well. I'd eschew the fiberglass cloth and go with an ever-so-slightly thinned out fiberglass resin poured straight into the crevice. Once the epoxy has hardened, sound the delaminated area again and inject any unfilled areas. If the deck is still soft after injecting, then likely one of the fiberglass skins has fractured.
The deck should be checked for wetness. After the middle piece was installed in the same manner, Dave laid two strips of fiberglass tape along the seams where the three pieces joined. The section of the cabintop where this is, is right next to the companionway and a hatch and the edge where the deck bends down from the cabintop to the sidewall of the cabin. Any opinions on this issue? So it is a strong section of the deck not a wide open area. It didn't appear dark and rotten, so I set up a tarp tent over the deck and put in a heater after drilling maybe 100 holes Pic E. I'll bet she'll find evidence of rot and delamination around nearly every deck penetration and fastener, of course some areas worse then others. What you need is compression strength and good adhesion properties in a core replacement, preferably one that's fairly light weight you don't end up tripling or quadrupling the weight of your deck like Flexane would.
A soft or giving feeling will indicate potential areas of delamination. A small crack exists as well. Any hints, tips, or suggestions on better ways to approach this problem? I'm a bit concerned about the shear-strength of the Microlight-filled epoxy since the core is mostly in shear. If it is a sailing boat there are pretty obvious load paths between the points where the rigging or fittings bolt on. In this case the inner skin have to be adequately supported, in order to replace the outer skin and the core material. First, it saves material and, if carefully prepared, reduces fairing of the surfaces to the original camber. I've never seen that before.