I will drain the transfer case and try to pull that yoke out and see if there's any pitting on the surface seal area and then go from there. This is a great setup and was fully functional when removed. Unless you can't leave your macho Jeep mentality behind, get ready for a workout! If you have a truck or wagon you won't have to drop your driveshaft or remove an overdrive I left mine in place. Novak's does all kinds of Jeep mods and conversions and manufactures their own parts. The tranny and T-case were rebuilt a few years back. I waited too long and it cost me a new intermediate gear, output gear, and mainshaft gear. Not sure what I did wrong.
I never did actually weigh it, but it is a load. Just bought new clutch disc and pressure plate from you. If you were using the vehicle alot, this minor detail might become really irritating. Seeing as it plays such an important role in off-road functionality, the transfer case is often an area of interest for potential modifications and upgrades. I will take this off later to seal the gasket and put on for good.
Jon has nearly a half-century of experience with vintage Jeep parts. Moses Moses, I am back from vacation and back at it. Unfortunately I had a mishap on the front bearing cap. By the way, I like your work style—well organized and great parts layout! The order the go is ball, spring, cap. Note: I'd wrap the piece in a Kevlar or fiberglass welding blanket after brazing to allow slow cool down. Before starting your rig, check all components for clearance.
Very easy to do and now my rear shaft is nearly perfectly aligned. Looks like you did use sealant on the rear bearing shim stack gaskets, right? Drain the gear oil from the case. Both were before Carl went into his tranny. I suggest using a floor jack for support if you decide to remove the case. The shaft is visible from the front of the case. I need to demonstrate the Walker in a video, it's really a time saver. Aside from the side drive design shortfalls and frictional losses, these Model 18 Spicer transfer cases could handle a 250 horsepower V-8 with ease.
Then remove the shift rod. This thing could be easily? Good news for 18 owners is that the intermediate shaft, intermediate gear, thrust washers, and bearings are all serviceable through the inspection cover on the bottom of the case. Will not part, complete sale only. I use either a thinner shellac-like sealant or Gasgacinch on shim stacks. Do not lose the thrust washers located at each end of the gear shaft. Removing the Transfer Case If you have choosen to remove the transfer for a complete rebuild, your job will not be that difficult. I'm swapping out the rear bearing cap on my T-18 and I've got a bit of pitting on the companion flange that would probably eat up my new thicker single rubber lipped oil seal----if I install it all the way in where it will be over the pitted part.
Inspect the teeth for wear and check for up and down movement of the shaft. If it were, you could remove a slight amount of material with a die grinder and carbide bit; however, this should not be necessary. Once we broke it free the remainder of the job was trouble-free. Leave some extra space for tire and axle dynamics such as when one tire is stuffed and the one at the other end of the axle has daylight under it , and you should be okay. How do I drive that pin out? You will always have noise because of the square cut gears. If you have not driven the intermediate shaft out yet, do so now.
Copper coat on the shim stack works nicely. Surprised not to find these tin caps, they were available years ago. I braze and silver braze, and my first reaction is to reach for the oxy-acetylene torch. Since completion, I have drove the jeep for a little over a year and loved every minute of it. When replacing the detent springs, balls, and the interlock for the shift levers, I prefer to leave the interlock out. Seriously, I don't think anyone will argue the benefits of getting the driveshaft angles close and this conversion is a snap if you have the clearance. Time to hurry up and wait! Moses Next I fussed with the shims for a bit until I got it right, Needed to do this to clean out the paint in the threads.
Getting to the Weak Link As I mentioned earlier, the intermediate shaft is accessible from the bottom through the inspection cover. I also ordered some of Walcks Sedan Delivery rear door seals which I hope will stop the exhaust from coming in. You can partially assemble other parts before pulling the gear into position if you prefer. When installing the intermediate shaft, the trick is to keep needle rollers in position if not using caged bearings on the intermediate gear when you install the shaft. This is a gear drive unit without a large risk of blocking passageways with sealant, but on engines or modern chain drive transfer cases, you don't want excess sealant floating around in the unit and clogging an oil pickup screen.